Tantalizing combinations in a festive atmosphere

Cape Cod Times
March, 2007

By LAURIE HIGGINS

The recent balmy spell shook me out of my comfort food mood and made me want to tantalize my taste buds a bit. Ay! Caramba Cafe & Cantina in Harwich (and Falmouth) seemed like a perfect choice - and it was.

The atmosphere was sunny and colorful, with deep yellow walls covered with Mexican art and gorgeous photographs of Mexican people. Our waitress, Laura, was warm and friendly.

A quick look at the menu convinced me I could order just about anything and still splurge on the classic margarita for $4.95, which I did. Laura brought us toasty tortilla chips with a red-and-green salsa to munch on while we perused the menu. Even though it is not a great time of the year for tomatoes, the red salsa with chopped tomatoes, onions, jalapeno and cilantro was crisp and flavorful. The salsa verde, a spicy puree of tomatillos and chiles, was even better.

The menu offered lots of tempting and affordable choices, like carnitas (pork), pollo (chicken) and carne asada (beef) burritos for $8.95 and soft tacos in the same flavors - plus fish - for $2.95.

But ever since I read the novel ''Like Water for Chocolate” by Laura Esquivel years ago, I have been fascinated by the idea of mole sauce and the unlikely but sensual combination of spicy chile peppers and chocolate. When I saw chicken mole for $12.99, my decision was made.

The dish lived up to my expectations. The chicken was extremely tender and smothered with dark brown mole. The mole was a divine chocolate, chile and peanut sauce with a complex flavor that amazingly doesn't taste like any of its individual ingredients.

Dinner came with rice that was mildly seasoned and not at all starchy, and a thinly sliced zucchini topped with shredded cheese. On the side were two warm tortillas so you could make your own little roll-ups - fun and tasty.

My husband chose the oven-roasted salmon served in a poblano cream sauce ($14.95) - one of the fish specials Ay! Caramba will be serving every Friday during Lent.

The deep crimson color, delicate flavor and firmness of the fish all indicated this was wild salmon, and the cream sauce was a wonderful accompaniment.

For dessert, my husband ordered the Mexican bread pudding, a flavorful offering with almonds, raisins and cheese topped with a caramel sauce ($3.75).

With terrific food and a great atmosphere, the only thing that detracted from our dining experience was the fact that the dishes and silverware were plastic. I wish this didn't bother me, but it did, especially the plastic flatware. Food this good deserves more respect.

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